Praia da Ursa

There are beaches you drive to, and there is Praia da Ursa: a wild crescent of sand beneath the cliffs beside Cabo da Roca, reached only on foot, guarded by two colossal rock formations — the Bear and the Giant. Many call it the most beautiful beach in Portugal, and the fact that it cannot be reached in comfort is part of its stubborn charm.

The westernmost beach of Europe

The beach lies at the end of a steep, rocky path that starts near the Capo da Roca lighthouse, the westernmost point of mainland Europe; the descent takes some 20 to 30 minutes, the climb back longer — the trail is rough, with some scrambling, and should not be attempted in rain or with small children. No lifeguards, no bars, no shade: just Atlantic surf, cold water, the rock giants and, on many days, a handful of nudists who have claimed the far end for decades. Above, the coastal paths of the Sintra-Cascais natural park wander through the heath towards Sintra’s palaces.

What to see

• The Bear and the Giant rock formations
• The cape’s lighthouse above the beach
• Atlantic surf and rock pools at low tide
• The wild cliffs of the Sintra coast
• The sunset, if you dare climb back in the half-light — take a torch

Practical information

Park beside the road near Cabo da Roca and follow the marked dirt track; the round trip is about 3 kilometres and two hours with the descent and climb. Take water, proper shoes and a jacket for the wind. The beach is unpatrolled and the ocean powerful — swim with great care.

Image credit: Praia da Ursa by Shinpachi Shimura — CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.